A Year in Uruguay

While I intended to visit Uruguay's National Museum of Art shortly after I went to the Museo Torres-García, I never made it during the entire year I lived in Montevideo.

Partly because I didn't notice it.

My mental image of an art museum is a grand classical building like the Art Institute of Chicago or the west wing of the National Gallery of Art or else I imagine something impressively modern like the National Gallery's east wing or the Guggenheim in Bilbao.

The Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales is located in Parque Rodó and I'd parked right next to it dozens of times without knowing it. The architecture reminded me of an elementary school. The courtyard was usually full of kids in their school tunicas which reinforced the impression. I didn't realize it was a museum.




During our vacation in Uruguay this year, I made up for my past omission by making the museum a priority.

The museum is small, about the size of my local art museum, and all the exhibits can be seen in about an hour. When we visited in July, they had a visiting exhibit of works by Spanish artist Joan Miró and a large exhibit by a Uruguayan artist in the style of Torres-García, in addition to works from their permanent collection.


Admission: free.
Tuesday-Sunday 12:00-6:00 pm

Labels: art, Montevideo places, museums, Uruguay

Montevideo, like most big cities, has its share of graffiti, mainly indecipherable scrawls on dumpsters, houses, and statues. Our Uruguayan friends told us that graffiti became much more prevalent after the economic crisis of 2002.

As an economist, "The economy is the cancer of the world" caught my eye, but even more striking was a conversation, of sorts, painted along the wall of Pocitos beach. An exuberant Christian had painted several city blocks of the wall with a stream of religious statements in bold letters. An atheist had responded to every saying with cursive spraypaint, so walking along the beach, it read "GOD LIVES" "inside your stupid head" and a dozen more couplets.

Other graffiti was spray-painted support for soccer teams (Peñarol and Nacional being the most visible) or rock bands (many US and European groups from various decades). Some of it was political, either party slogans or independent outcry. And some were declarations of love or simple declarations of the writer's existence. There were two genres of artistic graffiti, over-sized NYC-style paintings and smaller, and often more interesting, stencil work.


Here is a video slideshow of my graffiti photos from Montevideo:

Labels: art, customs, informal sector, Uruguay, video

Patio Andaluz, in Parque Rodó, reminds me, on a smaller scale, of public parks in southern Spain. An allée of tall palms leads to the patio which overlooks the Río. It was built in 1930 and restored in 1995.

Montevideo's Museo del Azulejo features similar tiles.

Labels: art, Montevideo places, Uruguay

Zooilógico del Futuro is a group of scuptures by Martín Arreguí installed on each side of Ruta 3 in the departamento de Flores. The pieces show Uruguay's native fauna-- ñandú, carpincho, puma, zorro-- and the threats they face. The setting is an interesting choice-- a traffic circle in the middle of miles and miles of open country.

Labels: art, Flores, interior, nature, Uruguay